Sea Island Nature Ride

I just got back from riding with Stacia Hendricks, a naturalist on Sea Island, who took me out for a nature ride on the beaches and into the varied ecosystems of Sea Island. I rode Charlie, a very large Belgian Draft horse. At almost 18 hands high, I would certainly be getting a bird's eye view of things during our journey.

We rode over the Black Banks River and hit the wooded trails that lead to the wide, sandy beaches of Sea Island. There is a rich diversity of bird life on Sea Island. We passed an osprey nest at the beginning of the maritime forest, and Stacia and I stopped to look up at the proud mama.

Once we hit the beach, we decided to canter a bit. We were headed towards the stakes that mark a loggerhead turtle nest a ways down the beach. I signaled Charlie, who took off into a canter. Stacia was riding a smaller Quarter Horse. As Charlie is so big, we could actually trot along and keep up with her horse's canter. Charlie had a large trot, so I decided that cantering would be a bit more comfortable. Stacia's horse had no trouble keeping up and our horses seemed to get a little competitive at one point, hoping to race.

I held Charlie back a bit, noticing that we were nearing the nest. Loggerhead turtles are an endangered species. Stacia talked a bit about how she and others on the island work to help the turtles thrive and survive.

Keeping house lights and flashlights out is important on these islands where the turtles nest, because when the sea turtles finally hatch out of their eggs, they follow the moonlight to the water to swim away. These turtles have some sort of internal GPS, because turtles that are born in one spot will return to the spot where they were born when it is time for them to have babies. The journey to the sea leaves a lasting imprint, and they they always go back to that spot.

The journey from their nest to the ocean also prepares them to swim, as the turtles will stretch their muscles on the way to the water.

From there, Charlie and I carefully navigated on a pathway onto the trails leading into the dunes. Here, the rich vegetation was even more evident. This vegetation helps anchor the sand in place and keep the dunes from eroding. The wind was pretty strong as we rode onward. I could see why the trees leaned away from the water. Many of the trees appeared to be manicured or like miniature bonsai trees. Stacia explained that the wind causes this process.

We stayed on the trails as we rode through the dunes. With the subtropical environment comes added plant life like cactus and these pretty white flowers, which are actually sting as a defense mechanism.

Stacia explained that on the island many of the plants have special properties, such as the toothache tree. Stacia grabbed a leaf off of the tree and handed it back to me. It smelled minty. If you were to chew on a mouthful of these, your mouth would go numb, thus good for toothaches.

Stacia got really excited, as she pointed out the rare and elusive red-billed oyster catcher. This small bird is not yet on the endangered list, but it's listed as a bird of concern, as its numbers are dwindling.

We were riding through a couple of different habitats, as we moved from the beach through the dunes and into the marsh. As we rode down the trail, a mass of Fiddler Crabs scurried out of our way. The male crabs have a large claw that is used to attract the females to mate.

I was learning a lot as we continued to ride. Back on the beach, Stacia and I opted for another fast ride down the shore. The sand appeared to have thick black lines in it in many places. Stacia said that this sand is black because it is filled with minerals, which actually came from the Appalachian Mountains.

I looked at the ocean, as we continued our ride, hoping to catch a glimpse of the dolphins who had followed us on our trek the other day. No such luck. The oceans off of Sea Island are teeming with life, and Stacia pointed out more of what I could and couldn't see as we continued down the shore. What a great way to discover the island's natural history--on horseback!

Day Two on Cumberland Island

Today we ventured out to see more of the horses and wildlife on Cumber- land Island. The horses on Cumber- land travel in family groups, usually with a dominant stallion. Because the island is for the most part undeveloped and subtropical forest, there are not many grazing areas. The horses must compete for the few grassy grazing areas on the island, the majority of which are the lawns of the few houses and historical buildings or ruins scattered around the island. Fresh water is supplied by an aquifer and Lake Whitney, which is the largest lake on the island.

We watched a family group graze on the lawn outside of Greyfield Inn. There was a black foal, which must have been only about two months old, traveling with four other horses. The foal danced around a bit for our cameraman and got quite close. I had read stories before coming to Cumberland about people who had thought that the horses were so cute that they would get a really close look and receive a kick or bite in return. The horses are living in the wild, so I knew to keep my distance and warned the rest of our group to watch out too.

I felt like we were on a safari as I stood behind a tree and quietly observed the group dynamics. I also tried to pick out the different breeds that have been combined in each of these horses on Cumberland. Fred told us how the Spanish left their horses on the island, which later bred with plantation owners' abandoned horses. Thus the horses are a mixed lot with a bit of Appaloosa, Thoroughbred, Quarter Horse and a few other breeds.

Cumberland's horses have been somewhat controversial, Fred told me. The horses have been monitored but not controlled with regard to population size or additional nutrition. While some people worry that their health is not the best, others people are concerned that the horses are causing the island to further erode. The horses mainly dine on sea oats and other vegetation which helps to hold the sand on dunes in place. When this vegetation is lost, the dunes erode further. The horses are non-native to the island, meaning that we humans brought them over. We also brought over hogs, which continue to do damage to the island.

No matter what your feelings are on the horses, there aren't that many places in the world where you can observe horses living on their own in the wild. Cumberland Island is definitely worth a visit. It is spectacularly diverse, rugged and beautiful. If you are into observing wildlife, hiking, camping or getting away to a luxurious and historical enclave like Greyfield, where there are no telephones or televisions and access to the mainland is limited, you'll love the adventure of visiting Cumberland. I know I wanted to stay a few more days to try and find one of the island's bobcats. I had already seen deer, alligators, horses, an armadillo, herons, hummingbirds, giant live oaks and other wildlife.

A storm was headed our way, so we drove on the beach back toward Greyfield. The beach was devoid of people. I had thought that Sea Island was quiet, but the beaches of Cumberland were empty and hauntingly beautiful, as a strong wind began to blow.

Now, it's time for dinner. We have a candlelit supper of fresh fish and other island delights. I'm told we'll dine as a group at the original Carnegie dining table that is large enough to seat all the guests. Then, I will definitely crash, as it was a long and wild day.

Wild Horses on Georgia's Cumberland Island

Today was fantastic! I spent the day touring Georgia's Cumberland Island with naturalist Fred Whitehead, who has an intimate knowledge of the island's "wild" horses and varied ecosystems.

Roughly the size of Manhattan, Cumberland is a small island off the southern Georgia coast and boasts 17.5 miles of pristine beaches. It is no more developed today that it was in the early 20th century, as large landowners and now the National Park Service have tightly regulated development on the island for over a century.

If you are traveling to Cumberland, make ferry reservations in advance, as the National Park Service limits the number of people going on and off of the island. You can either camp at sea camps or hike to backcountry camps, or stay at the historic Greyfield Inn. I chose the latter, as I knew that after a day of touring around and chasing after wild horses I would want a hot shower and a full meal. I also wanted to experience the inn's history.

Greyfield was built in 1900 as a wedding present for Lucy and Thomas Carnegie's daughter, Margaret. The inn is best described as gracious and peaceful. In true Southern tradition, Greyfield has a long, deep porch. There are rocking chairs and comfy porch swings with oversized pillows to rest on. Baskets of blankets are within arm's reach if the evening air brings a chill. After settling in and meeting my gracious hosts, the Ferguson family, I sat out on the big porch in a rocking chair eating my lunch and observing a hummingbird feast at a birdfeeder no more than five feet away. My attention turned toward the expansive, live oak-shaded lawn after hearing the sound of hooves on the hard ground. A couple of horses had strolled out of the forest to graze on the grass. I had to remind myself that these horses are feral and wander freely all over the island.

I was ready to learn more about Cumberland's unique horse population, but first my host wanted to take me on a tour of Greyfield. He assured me that the horses would be around when we got back, so I reluctantly followed him around the house and grounds.

The inside of the inn is decorated with antiques and feels very comfortable--after all, you're staying with friends rather than at an inn. The inn is owned and operated by Carnegie descendants, and you are free to make yourself at home. Perhaps most interesting is their "Honest John" bar system. Anytime a guest wants a drink, they are free to fix themselves one, keeping a "chit" or tab. Though a simple gesture and pleasant accommodation, it invites guests to relax, open up, and make new friends.

But the Inn could wait. After all, I had horses to see!

I had heard that the gnats and ticks were abundant on the island. I wasn't too keen on that, so I bathed myself in Off before leaving Greyfield to take my nature tour. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that spring and autumn are the seasons for pesky insects; so instead, I had only to contend with the warm Georgia sun.

Fred Whitehead owns one of the few cars allowed on Cumberland Island. He pulled up in a well-worn 1970's Land Rover and greeted me with a friendly smile. Fred was dressed for safari and exploration in a jungle green T-shirt and British khaki shorts. His skin is tanned from years spent outdoors, and his eyes are sharp and inquisitive. There is a Teddy Rooseveltian quality about him. Fred is the real deal. There's no one who has as much experience or such an intimate knowledge of the flora and fauna of Cumberland. Better still, he's a kind, intelligent gentleman who dazzled me with knowledge of the horses and other wildlife we discovered.

Fred packed our crew into the Land Rover and off we went onto the dirt roads that snake through the subtropical forest. We were in search of horses, but first, Fred gave us a little background.

The horses on Cumberland are usually called "wild" horses, but like the Chincoteague Ponies, the Australian Brumbies and the Mustangs out west, Cumberland's are actually feral. This means that their ancestors were once domesticated and that these horses have been left to fend for themselves in the wild.

Fred explained how the Spanish first brought horses to Cumberland in the 1500s, only to abandon them shortly thereafter. Following the Spanish were plantation owners who tried to make a living from the land. They too left horses behind. This cycle of population and abandonment continued for a few hundred years until the mid 19th century saw an interest in Cumberland by newly wealthy Americans from the north. Over time the horses grew feral.

There would be no riding feral horses for us. I hoped we might, but Fred laughed. Apparently, even if we had a domesticated, well-trained horse, it wouldn't be safe to ride anywhere on Cumberland because of the other feral horses there. Fred told a story about someone on the island who wanted to start a carriage tour operation. Well, during the first tour out, the horse pulling the carriage was attacked by one of the feral stallions, which proceeded to attack the carriage horse all the way home. I can only imagine that scene!

Daylight was growing short, and Fred took us back to Greyfield to refresh and prepare for more adventures the next day. Little did I know that I would find a great many horses, including a pony just a few months old, and I even got a few photos of it!

Beach Riding on Sea Island, GA

Well, I am sitting here with a sunburn after a very full day of beach riding on Sea Island. During my ride, Sarah, who was leading our small group of three down a wide sandy beach under a bright blue sky, said that it couldn't get any better than this. I have to agree.

Sea Island is one of the barrier islands off of Georgia's coast in a grouping known as the Golden Isles. The Sea Island Resort has been welcoming guests to the island retreat for generations, and people have been riding on the island for generations. I am staying at the Lodge at Sea Island, which is actually located on St. Simon's Island. The Lodge is surrounded by large oak trees, dripping with Spanish moss, and a world-class golf course. At night, you have the option of having freezing cold milk and cookies that are brought to your room before bedtime. Who would refuse that after a day of riding?

I'm checking out Sea Island's riding program and taking advantage of beach riding, a sometimes rare commodity on the crowded East Coast of the United States.

If you are staying at the Sea Island Resort, you can sign up for English or Western style beach rides, nature rides and lessons. Some people also bring their horses with them to Sea Island for a week, the whole summer or when making Sea Island their new island home.

We were starting our mid-morning ride from a place called Rainbow Island, which is actually on St. Simon's Island across the Black Banks River from Sea Island. We would have to ride a short distance, about two city blocks, across a bridge over the river to get to the trails that would lead us to the beach.

I rode a beautiful five-year-old Belgian Draft horse named Cory. This was my first time riding a Belgian Draft horse. Cory is still young, and I was told that he has the personality of a puppy. I had to watch him closely going through the wooded trails en route to the beach, so that he wouldn't chow down on any sub-tropical plants.

Once on the beach he was fantastic, except for the occasional head bob to try to chew on his reins. Sarah told me a bit about the island's history and the great natural history. We were the only people on the beach, and it was low tide, so we had a lot of room to ride.

As I felt Cory take off into our first canter, I knew that there was a great deal of power beneath me. I was told that there was almost one ton of weight beneath me.

We cantered up and down the shore with a few yelps for the takeoffs and big smiles during the acceleration. I gave Cory a pat as we stopped to look for sand dollars. A few minutes later Laurie yelled that she had found one.

At Sea Island you are tested before you are allowed to canter off onto the beaches and ride as a "recommended" rider. This ensures the safety of guests and the horses.

Sarah grew up riding in the area and now teaches at the Sea Island Stables. Another island resident rode with us, which allowed me to learn more about the island from another insider's perspective.

As we trotted back to the trails' entrance and back to the stables, we saw a school of dolphins curving up and down in the water beside us. I wanted to ride faster to stay beside the dolphins and watch them dance in and out of the small ocean waves.

Sarah mentioned that we could actually swim with the dolphins. Keeping tack clean is hard enough, but try doing it in the humid, salty environment of coastal Georgia. If we were going in the water, we were going to have to take off our saddles and ride bareback.

We were all comfortable riding bareback, so we waded into the ocean. I was very excited to be heading in for a swim and so was Cory. I had to grab mane a few times to keep my balance as we waded further into the ocean. It's good that Georgia is not known for its big surf because the small waves were small obstacles. Our group felt fantastic. Laurie did a quick dive into the water while we held her horse and then we switched off.

Later in the afternoon after washing the sand out of my jodhpurs I toured more of the island, learned about Sea Island's expanding equestrian program, and got a sneak peak at the new stables. They have done a nice job of integrating the stables into the natural surroundings and a great job planning for lots of space for the horses. The new facilities include four 16-stall barns, two of which are for private boarders. The other two are for the lesson horses.

Stay tuned for my upcoming nature ride with naturalist Stacia Hendricks. For now I'm going to listen to the bagpiper play on the lawn of the Lodge and soak in the ocean breeze before dinner.

Equitrekking Hits the Road

Today, I began my travel adventures on the East Coast, riding horses from the state of Georgia to the state of Vermont and filming for the Equitrekking™ television series.

Equitrekking is the first travel television series to explore the globe on horseback. Our new six-part series begins broadcasting nationally on Public Television in 2007. We're filming in high definition, in order to capture the beauty of the horses and scenery of each place that we visit.

We've already filmed in Ireland, New Mexico and Spain, discovering the best in horseback riding travel. For instance in Spain, I rode a fabulous white Andalusian horse named Figo through Doñana National Park, cantered along the wide beaches of Southern Spain, visited the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, experienced the Andalusian's aptitude for working cattle at a working farm outside of Seville, took a sunset ride on a breeding farm outside of Segovia and more. You can read those entries here. If you've ever taken a riding vacation or have dreamt about it, you know what I am writing about.

Each week or as often as I can get to the Internet, I'll be writing in this blog to tell you about the great horses, history and culture that I discover. Over the next couple of weeks, check back to read about:

Georgia: Savannah and the Golden Isles
We explore the history of horses on these barrier islands, live many people's dream of riding on the beach, learn about feral horses and their survival on Cumberland Island, trail ride with naturalists to learn about the environment on Sea Island, take a trip to Jekyll to ride on Driftwood beach and experience the island's once exclusive history, and enjoy historic Savannah in an imported Viennese carriage.

The Beaches and Mountains of the Carolinas
We step back in time to the small barrier island of Daufuskie, located off the coast of Hilton Head and only accessible via ferry. We ride to sites where the island's original inhabitants, the Cusabo Indians once lived, before cantering along wide Carolina beaches. Next we learn the art of carriage driving, during a beginning carriage driving clinic.

In the mountains of North Carolina, we hit the trails at the Biltmore Estate. We learn about natural horsemanship from a Parelli trained instructor and watch the kids in action during a session of summer camp.

In Cherokee, we ride horses through the Great Smoky Mountains with Cherokee community members, learning about the history and importance of horses to these Native Americans.

Vermont: Morgan Horses, Icelandic Horse Inn-to-Inn Ride
You don't have to travel to Iceland to enjoy riding Icelandic horses. From the Icelandic Horse Farm, we enjoy an inn-to-inn ride through the Mad River Valley. Next we venture north to Shelburne, South of Burlington, to the National Museum of the Morgan Horse to delve into the history of the Morgan horse. Then we get up close to the foals at the University of Vermont's Morgan Horse Farm.

Finally, we head to The Mountain Top Inn & Resort near Killington, Vermont. This intimate inn offers lessons in cross country, dressage and jumping, trail rides with picnic lunches in the forest, a children's program and pristine lake.

In August, we'll travel to Wyoming and Colorado. Stay tuned for more adventures!